The use of natural plant oils in skin care dates back thousands of years and is deeply rooted in various cultures around the world. Many ancient cultures recognized the benefits of plant oils for skin care and medicinal properties. They used various natural oils such as jojoba, castor, olive and sesame oils, and many others that would have been produced with a basic cold pressing technique.
Applying oils as the last step (or by itself) in your skin care routine helps improve skin’s moisture content by creating an occlusive barrier to lock in moisture and thus keep skin hydrated. Many natural plant oils contain essential nutrients such as vitamins, antioxidants and minerals that are beneficial for the skin. These nutrients contribute to skin health by providing nourishment and supporting the skin’s natural functions.
Applying vitamin C in specific concentrations to the skin has many effects that have been proven over the years. Vitamin C’s effects on skin texture, collagen synthesis and keratinocytes contribute to a healthier, more radiant appearance. Regular use of skin care products containing vitamin C can help address issues such as uneven skin tone, fine lines, wrinkles and sagging skin.
Vitamin C in skin care products can be present in various forms. Since L-ascorbic acid (the chemical name for vitamin C) is naturally water-soluble, vitamin C used in oil-based formulations must be processed to be oil-soluble so that it does not cause stability problems. Advanced forms of vitamin C derivatives have been developed and we cover several, along with other important aspects of compounding with the vitamin, in these blog posts:
The best forms of vitamin C in skin care
4 Vitamin C Skincare Myths Every Formulator Should Know
The oil solubility brings the advantage of adding vitamin C to completely anhydrous formulations, which offers the prospect of a new concept of cosmetic formulations capable of including forms of vitamin C without the need to use an emulsifier.
Vitamin C serum: key ingredients
Sesame oil it is a yellowish liquid with a characteristic aroma typical of sesame. It is often used in skin care for its moisturizing, antibacterial, cleansing and restorative properties.
Cottonseed oil it brings a touch of luxury and uniqueness and is known for its nourishing and protective properties.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is an oil-soluble form of vitamin C, which helps protect the skin from free radicals caused by UV radiation, pollution and other environmental stressors. This antioxidant action can help reduce signs of premature skin aging such as fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation or sun spots. It also has a key role in collagen synthesis.
Green coffee oil is rich in antioxidants, including chlorogenic acid and tocopherols (vitamin E), which help protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals and environmental stressors. This can contribute to a more vibrant and radiant complexion.
Evening primrose oil contains fatty acids, including γ-linolenic acid (GLA), which can help maintain the skin’s moisture barrier. Topical application of evening primrose oil can help hydrate the skin and prevent dryness.
Marigold CO2 extract it is well known for its anti-inflammatory properties. It can help soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive or inflammatory skin conditions such as eczema, dermatitis and sunburn.
Tocopherol is an antioxidant, providing a protective effect for components prone to oxidation.
Manuka essential oil is an essential oil with a sweet honey-like aroma, very popular in perfumery. It gives the formula an attractive, subtle scent.
Our composition: vitamin C serum
It does: Recommended test batch size: 100g.
Wording: a cold process.
Time Required: 15 minutes.
Level: entry-level composition for personalization and customization.
| ONE | Fractionated coconut oil | Caprilis capric triglycerides | 61.25 |
| ONE | Sesame oil | Sesamum indicum seed oil | 10.00 |
| ONE | Cottonseed oil | Gossypium herbaceum seed oil | 10.00 |
| ONE | Evening primrose oil | Oenothera biennis oil | 10.00 |
| ONE | Green coffee oil | Coffea Arabica seed oil | 5.00 |
| si | Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate | Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate | 3.00 |
| do | Vitamin E | Tocopherol | 0.60 |
| do | Manuka essential oil | Leptospermum scoparium branch/leaf essential oil | 0.10 |
| do | Marigold CO2 Extract | Calendula officinalis flower extract | 0.05 |
| Total: 100.00 |
Equipment:
- Libra
- Glasses
- glass rods or stainless steel spoons
- Pipettes
- Suitable container – bottle with siphon/dropper ideal
Method of Construction
- Friday
Sanitize your utensils and work area and wear appropriate PPE according to GMP.
- Weighing
Weigh each of the Phase A oils into a large glass beaker. Weigh them carefully, balancing (returning to zero) the scale after each addition. If you are concerned about weighing your oils accurately, weigh each oil separately into a separate small beaker before transferring to the single large beaker. Mix all the oils well.
- Vitamin C
Weigh the Phase B oil, vitamin C (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate), into a separate beaker. Add it to the beaker with the Phase A oils and mix them well with a stirring rod.
- Add the aromatic oils
Now add the manuka essential oil and marigold CO2 extract into the other oils and mix well.
- Transfusion and date
Transfer the oil mixture to a suitable dropper bottle or applicator top and label with the name, date and lot number.
Formulation notes
This is a simple oil based formula packed with modern and highly effective active ingredients. When formulating with natural vegetable oils and oil-soluble compounds prone to oxidation, always use an antioxidant. You can use tocopherol or rosemary extract to prevent oxidation. Since this is a water-free formula, there is no need to add a preservative.
Recommended suppliers
Many of the suppliers below ship internationally. We have given the basis of their homeland.
Aromatazone (EU). – contains manuka essential oil, marigold CO2 extract and sesame oil.
Aromatics (UK)
Alexmo Cosmetics (EU) – inventories Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.
Manske (EU)
Soap (UK)
Elementary (EU)
Lotioncrafter (USA)
Essential Wholesale (USA)
O&3 – The Oil Family (UK/EU)
Go Native (New Zealand)
Naturally Balmy (UK)
Soap & More (Canada)
Mystic Moments (UK) – inventories green coffee oil.
Nature in a Bottle (USA) – inventories green coffee oil.
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