Clean face? Control! Favorite serums? Control! Daily sunscreen application… and wait, what are those white blobs?
We all know that using sunscreen is essential at this point, so it’s no wonder that some of you have started to notice little white blobs, or “pills,” that occasionally form after application. At the very least, pilling is a waste of product, but overall it’s also quite frustrating. When something so integral to your daily routine causes such an unappealing result, it leaves you wondering what went wrong and, more importantly, how it can be prevented. So, let’s take a look at why these pesky pills form.
Why is she taking a sunscreen pill?
When creating a sunscreen, there are a few key elements that a formulator should keep in mind. For one, they’ll want it to spread across the skin and create an even film, allowing the sunscreen agents to disperse evenly. They’ll also want to make sure it stays in place and doesn’t migrate to the skin. This is important to maintain the consistent, even coverage needed to pass the SPF test. So, usually, certain ingredients are incorporated to form a film on the skin to hold it in place. Once the film is formed (depending on the ingredients used), any rubbing on the sunscreen can break the film and create something that looks like a pill.
What ingredients cause pills?
There are a few different ingredients to watch out for when it comes to pills. Chewing gums are the most common (and easiest) film formers to use. Ingredients like guar gum, sclerotia gum, xanthan gum and many others that contain the word gum are commonly found in sunscreen. There are also polymers (such as discriminations, copolymers, or a variety of different silicone polymers) that are used to lock this film in place.
These ingredients pose no risk of peeling on their own, but when you apply sunscreen with other products such as serums, moisturizers or makeup. When you combine a sunscreen that contains gums or polymers with another product that contains gums or polymers, the two will stick to each other or interact. Because they are incompatible, this can lead to a scary pill.
Whether rubbing off your sunscreen after application or incorporating additional products with polymers and gums, the sunscreen film can break down and form pills.
How can the pill be prevented?
Weekly exfoliation
A careful skincare routine is critical to creating a clean slate for all subsequent products. While the pill is, for the most part, a polymer interaction, texture from dirt or dead skin cells sitting on top of the skin can cause problems of their own. Dry skin, dead skin cells, and peeling skin can prevent sunscreen absorption. That’s why exfoliating once or twice a week is a great way to cleanse your skin and ensure maximum absorption of skincare products.
Reading more about the different types of exfoliants and find out which one is right for you.
Take a closer look at the products you use
When trying to avoid the pill, it all comes down to choosing the right products and putting them together. Sometimes that means choosing which product you like best. If there’s a certain serum, moisturizer, or makeup product that you can’t miss but interacts with your sunscreen, you may need to look for a sunscreen that doesn’t contain the same gums or polymers. The same is true if there’s one sunscreen you can’t live without. Unfortunately, there’s not much we can do about this gum-to-gum interaction other than rotate between different products and determine which ones are compatible. Like many things in skincare, finding out what works best for your unique skin comes down to trial and error.
Look for reliable brands with rigorous testing procedures
I’ve been head of product development for my skin care line for over 27 years and this has really taught me that I’m on the right track product testing procedures is key to ensuring a good user experience.
For example, I just recently started testing a new moisturizer for my line. One thing I always pay attention to when making skin care products is to see how they react with other products. In this case, that means I test this moisturizer with every serum in my line, so when it’s all said and done, I can confidently say that all of our products work together without the risk of flaking. Lo and behold, I ran into a pilling problem with one of our serums and guess what – I had to go back to rework the formula. Now this is all perfectly normal, but necessary to deliver a product that not only does what it says it’s going to do, but also provides a great user experience (and definitely no pills!).
While I can never be sure how one product will react to another outside of my line, I make it my mission to do as much as possible in terms of testing formulas, ingredients, different viscosities, and anything else necessary to ensure a good interaction.
So, why not formulate a sunscreen without gums and polymers?
Simply put, gums, elastomers, and different polymers are vital to boosting a product’s SPF value. They ensure that the protective film is properly formed on the skin and evenly diffuses the UV filters, providing the best SPF value and the best possible sun protection. If manufacturers did not use these ingredients, it would be extremely difficult to develop high performance sunscreens that meet (and maintain) SPF standards on the skin.
At the end of the day, these sunscreens are really nice, solid products that happen to interact with another nice, solid product. Unfortunately, this is just something you have to navigate when choosing products that work together.
Three common misconceptions about the sunscreen pill
Myth #1: Application techniques can prevent the pill
Unfortunately, this is not the case. Physically, there is little that can be done after you apply a film to your skin and then apply another film over it. Once these layers are completely dry, the pilling begins. Ultimately, it is a chemical reaction and no technique will make a difference.
However, I always recommend layering your products from thinner to thicker to ensure product absorption and lasting hydration.
Myth #2: Your skin type affects the pill
No! As I mentioned, this happens to be a phenomenon that occurs due to a chemical reaction – not your skin type.
Myth #3: The amount of sunscreen applied affects the pill
While it can affect the amount of the pill, using anything other than the recommended amount of sunscreen never a good idea. Yes, applying less sunscreen can lower the pill, but that limits its effectiveness and protection, and likely means you’re not getting the advertised SPF. Conversely, if your sunscreen interacts with other products, adding more could just make it worse. Besides, if your products interact, the more of them you use, the more pill you’ll take.
Read more about how to apply sunscreen correctly;.
Finding the perfect combination of products can be a journey, but I hope this helps you navigate a little better. By taking the time to experiment and find a solution to your pill woes, you’re not only saving money, but also providing your skin with the best form of UV protection.
Then find out which one 5 Skincare Mistakes Could Make Your Makeup Less Effective.
Celebrity Esthetician & Skin Care Specialist
As an esthetician trained in cosmetic chemistry, RenĂ©e Rouleau has spent 30 years researching skin, educating her audience and building an award-winning line of products. Her hands-on experience as an esthetician and trusted skin care expert has created a real solution — products designed to nine different skin types so your face will have exactly what it needs to look and feel its best. Trusted by celebrities, editors, bloggers, and skincare enthusiasts around the world, her vast real-world knowledge and constant research is why Marie Claire calls her “the most passionate skin professional we know.”
