Exfoliation is the secret weapon of skin care. It might already be part of your routine, but did you know it’s the best for glowing skin? Its function is to get rid of dead cells that can build up on the surface of the skin and make the skin look dull. This makes exfoliation a great step to focus on if you want to reveal soft, glowing and even skin. Exfoliation can be divided into chemical and physical — but even within these categories, there are subcategories. Enzymes and acids make up a group of chemical exfoliants, ideal for all skin types, including sensitive skin. Ready for a lesson? Let’s break it down.
3 Types of Exfoliation
A quick refresher: Exfoliation is the process of removing these dead skin cells from the surface of your skin using a safe chemical, granular substance, or exfoliating tool. While we usually discuss exfoliation in relation to the skin on the face, it can actually occur on almost any skin on the body — from dry elbows to scaly feet and cracked heels. When this layer of dead skin is gone, the skin underneath looks polished and brighter (since dead skin = dullness). Fresh, glowing skin is better prepared to evenly absorb all products applied next, including moisturizers, serums and self-tanners.
There are three main types of exfoliation:
- Natural Exfoliation
- Chemical peeling using acids
- Chemical exfoliation using enzymes
Natural Exfoliation
Physical exfoliation involves using a scrub or tool to manually remove dead skin cells from the surface of your skin. This method often involves products with small granules or beads, or tools such as brushes or exfoliating cloths. Natural exfoliation can leave your skin instantly smooth and refreshed. However, it’s important to be gentle to avoid irritating your skin or causing microtears.
Chemical peeling using acids
Chemical acid peels involve applying products containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) or polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) to your skin. All three of these acids are exfoliating ingredients that work by breaking the bonds that keep dead skin cells attached to the skin’s surface. By breaking these bonds, the acids can reveal new, fresher skin. Each type has its own unique benefits: AHAs are water-soluble and target dullness, dehydration and signs of aging. BHAs are oil-soluble, penetrating deeper into the skin and balancing oils (a lifesaver for breakout-prone skin). PHAs are gentle and non-irritating, so they are suitable for sensitive skin.
Chemical exfoliation using enzymes
Enzyme peeling uses natural enzymes, often derived from fruits such as papaya or pineapple, to gently break down the keratin protein in dead skin cells. This method is particularly gentle and suitable for sensitive skin because it works without scrubbing or the use of acids. Enzyme peels are great for brightening skin’s appearance and improving texture without the risk of irritation that some may experience with acid-based peels.
Each type of exfoliator offers unique benefits, so choosing the right one depends on your skin type and needs.
Whether you prefer the immediate results of natural exfoliation, the deep cleansing power of chemical acids, or the gentle touch of enzymes, regular exfoliation is key to maintaining healthy, glowing skin.
What are enzymes? Difference between acids and enzymes
Enzymes help speed up chemical processes. You’ve probably heard enzymes in the context of digestion. They are proteins (usually made in the body) that help break down food into smaller parts so your body can easily digest the nutrients. When it comes to enzymes in the skin, their role is to break down keratin – also known as the protein in dead skin cells that makes them stick together on the surface. In this sense, enzymes are similar to acids, but often feel milder and less intense on the skin. These tiny molecules (often harvested from fruits like pineapple, pumpkin, cherries and papaya) help break down old fibers in the skin to make room for new ones to form. Without enzyme activity, you would see a build-up of dead cells and old fibers in the skin.
So, what distinguishes enzymes from acids? The enzymes get rid of these dead skin cells on the surface of the skin, but do not promote the turnover of the living cells underneath. Enzymes help slough off skin that’s already dead, instead of letting it sit on the surface and cause dullness. They exfoliate and lighten the skin, are generally recommended for use about every 2-3 days and are safe to use during pregnancy, although we always recommend talking to your doctor.
Acids, on the other hand, penetrate deeper into the skin and speed up turnover for all your skin cells, not just the ones on top. Acids naturally break down the cells that can cause shedding of the skin and allow new skin cells to form.
Which exfoliator is right for you?
Wondering how to find out which type of exfoliator is best for you? Because enzymes don’t penetrate as deep into the pores, they tend to be less abrasive on the skin. If you have sensitive skin, then sticking to an enzyme-based exfoliator might be the answer.
Acids can work for a variety of skin types, but you may need to play around to figure out which is the best option based on your skin concerns and goals. The forced renewal of cells that provide certain acids can be a game changer for hyperpigmentation, sun damage and acne.
Acids and enzymes from Eminence Organics
Barbados Cherry Enzyme Cleaning Powder
Barbados Cherry Enzyme Cleansing Powder turns from a powder to a creamy foam when mixed with water. As you massage it into your skin, you’ll feel the gentle exfoliation provided by actinidin and papain enzymes, while Barbados cherry, Kakadu plum and diatomaceous earth work together to leave your skin even and balanced. Part of the Superfood Enzyme collection, this cleanser harnesses the power of tropical enzymes such as actinidin from kiwi, papain from papaya and bromelain from pineapple. These natural enzymes gently rejuvenate skin and enhance radiance without the need for harsh scrubbing, making them ideal for all skin types, including sensitive.
In particular, the actinidine in this cleanser, derived from kiwi, helps improve and smooth even the most sensitive skin without causing irritation. Other effective enzymes in our Superfood Enzyme collection include bromelain, derived from pineapples grown in Thailand, which contains amino acids to break down dead skin cells, revealing smoother skin. Papain, derived from unripe papayas (also grown in Thailand) is effective in softening and exfoliating the skin’s appearance. These enzymes are a natural and gentle way to enhance your skin care routine, promoting a brighter and more even complexion.
Arctic Berry Peel & Peptide Illuminating System
Arctic Berry Peel & Peptide Illuminating System is another option with enzymes and acids. This innovative 3-step peel and peptide system is designed to exfoliate and keep skin glowing between spa treatments. The home system is a favorite, with 5-star reviews across the board. A customer, Trinashe calls the ensemble “amazing,” continuing in her review on the site: “Words can’t describe the huge difference in my skin. I have never tried a more effective home product!!!!” Another fan, Abbysays “My skin looks radiant, tight and my pores are significantly smaller – even my husband noticed. I’m buying it for both my husband and I to use’ and Stacey says “You need this!” and even shares it with friends: “I couldn’t be happier. About a day after using the product, your skin will be glowing. I love it so much, I’ve given it as gifts to others.”
Yam & Pumpkin Peeling with 5% Enzyme
Yam & Pumpkin Enzyme Peel 5% contains pumpkin, pineapple and papaya enzymes as well as lactic and glycolic acids. This enzyme peel speeds up the exfoliation process, removes dead skin cells and reduces the appearance of dark spots, fine lines and sun damage. A delightful puree of yam and pumpkin, this exfoliator leaves skin plump and glowing.
Pineapple refining tonic
If you’re looking for a tonic with enzymes and acidic ingredients, the Pineapple Refining Tonique uses both bromelain, a gentle but effective enzyme exfoliant derived from the fruit and stem of the pineapple plant, and polyhydroxy acid (PHA), a mild exfoliant that renews noticeably improves skin feel while targeting dryness and visible signs of aging. The combination of both enzymes and acid helps to brighten the skin’s appearance, minimize the appearance of dark spots, unclog pores and hydrate the skin.
Interested in adding enzymes to your exfoliation routine? Visit your nearest Eminence Organics Spa partner to find out which ones are right for you.
