The last time a new sunscreen active ingredient-you know, the good things that protect the skin from the rays of the aging of the sun and the cancer-was found in the United States, the Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake dating, “believe” by Cher were top of the charts Soprano He had just made his HBO debut.
Before crying a river, some good news: in June, four representatives of Congress introduced the bilateral bill, The law on safe sunscreen standardsTo revise the regulations that many feel is dated to the above pop culture reports. If passed, the law would Enter more modern evaluation methods, including real world studies and alternatives for animal testing, putting us better according to current world standards.
“This is a big deal,” says Carl D’Uruiz, Head of Science and Business Development DSM-Firmenich in North America, which manufactures sunscreen, including beauty products. “The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is under fire from Congress because it failed to add a new one [sunscreen] ingredient since 1999. At least it gives you a chance of a battle to bring innovation that has not been introduced to the US available in other countries. ”
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is under fire from Congress because it failed to add a new [sunscreen] Ingredient since 1999.
Carl D’Uruiz, Head of Business Defense and Development Science in DSM-Firmenich
Why are US sunscreen fall back?
While in Asia and Europe, sunscreen are considered cosmetics, they are classified as medicines and regulated by the FDA, which means that any new filter must be undergoing a full approval process to be considered grase or generally recognized as safe and effective.
This means an incredible amount of tests. From human clinical trials (these are called maximum use tests, basically sunscreen to imitate the worst case, which no other country uses to try sunscreen) in animal tests (the latter, which most brands want to do for good reason). The process can last for years and cost millions of dollars.
Filling in the matter? It is up to sunscreen to pay for this test. D’Uruiz’s company is close to getting the Parsol Shield ingredient (also known as bemotrizinol) throughout the FDA approvals. He estimates that they have spent $ 9 million since 2018. To be clear, the Parsol shield is a veteran chemical filter (chemical filters absorb UV rays and convert them to heat) used in types worldwide since 2001.
In an additional special fist, once approved, D’Uruiz’s company only gets exclusive in the use of Parsol Shield for 18 months before other brands can use it for their types. “This is one of the many issues the industry has with this test,” says Becky Kamowitz, The Executive Director of The Theater Skin cancer institution. “If one manufacturer proceeds and pays for these tests, because another manufacturer will also pay for it? Will he fall into the biggest companies to do so and the biggest companies do not want to afford this weight to have smaller companies to win their test.”
The skin cancer institution has drafted a support letter For safe sunscreen standards for people to sign. The law is currently in a vacuum: it has been referred to the House Energy and Trade Committee, but has not been ratified and will return to them in September. However, a Senate accompanying bill He unanimously spent July 30.
Before cleaning your current sunscreen, approved filters in the US are no less effective than others on the market.
When will we have a better sunscreen?
But time fits. Michael Werner, a senior public consultant to access the public to the Pass Coalition (Pass), says: “September is a critical month for the law on safe sunscreen, because it is linked to the bill, will have to pass and pass and pass on and pass through both Champs.
It is high bets-even the favorite conferences of all, Alexandria Octoto-Cortez, has weighed the subject. Back in 2023, she Went live on Instagram with the founder of Dieux skin care Charlotte Palerm discussing the issue. “US sunscreen are far behind the rest of the world”, adding, “We deserve better here in the US”
Especially because he is the suffering consumer. While about 30 to 40 filters are approved worldwide, only nine are commonly used in the US (two of which have been banned in Hawaii to protect reef). The FDA is not necessarily on board with all this. In 2019, she asked for more information about 12 of the 16 filters It was currently approved for use in the US. Enter the face emoji here.
Are approved sun filters less effective than others?
Before cleaning your current sunscreen, approved filters in the US are no less effective than others on the market. “There is incorrect perception that filters approved by the European Union are automatically safer or that US filters are outdated,” he says Dr. Caroline RobinsonDermatologist based in Chicago and founder. What we miss is the newest filters, which Dr. Robinson says it can improve cosmetic elegance and encourage more consistent use.
In addition to the act of safe sunscreen, he hopes to see more participation in future tests. “It is important to recognize that the use of sunscreen among African Americans has historically low and has only recently become more common,” he says. “Future decisions should be informed by research that includes all the photocopies and visual light protection, not just UV, one of the many reasons I support diversity in clinical trials.”
Think of the guys you see all over Tiktok while we are stuck with thicker, goopier types that leave white pros. The beauty of Joseon, a favorite of the AOC and the whole gen Z, had to even remodel her viral sunscreen with filters approved in the US to sell here.
“We have always said that the best sunscreen is the one you are most likely to use,” Kamowitz agrees. “If Americans have more options for products, this would make them more likely to use these products. We know that these ingredients that are not available here can lead to a much better experience for humans if these products combine better, if they work better with their skin tone, something like that.”
Especially at a time when skin cancer is the largest common cancer In the US, cases of melanoma have doubled in the last 30 years. Gen Z in Tiktok shouts the benefits of tanning beds and some beauty brands claim that the sun is not poison. Anything we can do to make people reach their screen is critical.
In general, our experts agree that the optimal practice when you head to your next outdoor park is daily use of a wide SPF 30+ spectrum, re -applying every two hours outdoors and combine with hats, shade and protective clothes.
Britney Spears Playlist Optional.
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