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The seemingly endless frustration of a bad haircut is something that unites almost all of us. It’s a well-worn story: You walk into the living room armed with a specific idea and unbridled optimism. Somewhere between the first cup of coffee and the second magazine, you notice that your hair is a little shorter than expected — lopsided, even. However, thanks to your stylist and advice, thinking you might be able to do it at home. When does it prove fruitless? A cry in the bathroom mirror.
Certainly, the emotional connection we have with our hair cannot be underestimated. A 2022 study on self-confidence and appearance, conducted by intelligence agency Opiniumfound that 56% of respondents had identified “good hair days” as a boosting self-esteem. Over the years, a plethora of research has also shown that hair is intrinsically linked to identity and self-image. All things considered, it stands to reason that a slip of the scissors (easily done) or a little miscommunication can be upsetting.
However, achieving a haircut you love—well beyond day one—doesn’t have to be so difficult. Previously, I asked three of London’s top hairdressers how to navigate the salon experience with confidence and learned a lot.
Don’t avoid the consultation – it’s free.
If you tend to miss it, a hair appointment is essentially a 15 minute appointment real appointment. It’s more often associated with drastic hair color transformations, but booking a pre-cut visit is also essential, says the hair trend forecaster and stylist. Tom Smith. Almost always free, consultations are a good opportunity to design exactly what you want from your cut without any pressure or time constraints, says Smith. Want your hair to be low maintenance? How often will you come in for a tune-up? These are just some of the key questions your stylist should ask you before grabbing the scissors.
Likewise, Gennaro Dell’Aquila, award-winning hairdresser and founder GA salons, says the tips aren’t just helpful, they’re necessary given our unique characteristics like face shape, hair texture, and maintenance preferences. “Also, don’t forget to mention if you’ve had hair treatments in the last few months,” says Dell’Aquila, especially keratin treatments and hair relaxers, which can change the texture of your hair, as well as bleach or color. “All of these are very important when designing your perfect cut,” emphasizes Dell’Aquila.
If you have specific needs or are especially nervous about getting what you’re hoping for, Smith recommends calling to book a separate, exclusive session in advance: “Still consider multiple consultations with different stylists,” advises Smith. “Instinctively, you will feel who you have the best relationship with.” It’s wise advice to find a “signature” stylist, someone you’ll see again and again.
Be vocal about your dislikes.
It’s so easy to tease out what you love (blow-dry texture, natural waves, low-maintenance styles) and gloss over what you don’t. But a good hairdresser should be open to hearing about your dislikes, suggests Dell’Aquila. “Be prepared to share a detailed description of the hair you’ve had and loved — as well as hated — in the past,” advises Smith. Even better? Bring selfies for reference if you have them. With that in mind, Smith’s top tip is to remember that your hairstylist can take time to learn how your hair responds to certain cutting (and coloring) techniques: “If you feel like you’re getting close to your goal, leave it at three consecutive appointments to refine and evolve the design,” says Smith. “It will be worth it in the long run.”
Bring reference photos — but not too many.
Whether you get them from Pinterest, Instagram, TikTok, or Refinery29, reference photos are a great starting point for conversation because they help stylists understand your aesthetic preferences, Dell’Aquila says. “However, it is vital to recognize that each person’s hair will respond differently to the same haircut due to unique textures and growth patterns,” adds Dell’Aquila. With this in mind, Neil Moodie, its founder Neil Moodie Studio, says it’s your stylist’s job to be honest about what’s possible with the idea you have in mind. It might not be what you want to hear, but it’s definitely better for your hair (and your maintenance plan, but more on that later) in the long run.
“Reference photos are essential and the easiest way to help get on the same page,” agrees Smith. “My advice is to bring three of your favorite reference images that are all on different people but ideally of a similar hair type. This includes texture density, color and styling, as well as how you intend to wear your hair on a daily basis.” This, says Smith, gives your stylist a great starting point from which to develop the idea into something unique and tailored to you. But consider a limit on the number or photos you submit. “More than three can be confusing,” says Smith, “and showing just one—or one person—can make it difficult to meet your expectations, as there may be more at play than the desired hairstyle. Do you want to is Hailey Bieber or do you just like her bob?’
Moodie also emphasizes the importance of being realistic. In fact, countless celebrities and influencers edit photos of their hair, Moodie reveals. “This happens a lot,” says Moodie, “especially with hair color, but haircuts can also be tweaked.” Not only that, Moodie always reminds his customers that a photo shows a cut from only one angle. “Hair is three-dimensional and needs to be considered from all angles,” says Moodie.
Commit to a “hair plan.”
The excitement of a new cut often means maintenance is an afterthought, so you’d be forgiven for trying (and failing) to recreate the same style or texture at home. “A key reason why you might not be satisfied with your haircut [after washing it yourself] is that it requires specific styling, which your hairstylist has performed after the cut but hasn’t shared with you,” says Smith. For this reason, it’s imperative to have a long-term “hair plan,” he adds. “This creates the foundation upon which a successful hair appointment – and a long-lasting client-hairstylist relationship – is built,” says Smith.
It starts with the right styling products. From the initial shampoo to the final spray of hairspray, don’t be afraid to ask your stylist if you can take photos of the products used throughout your appointment. It’s even possible that the salon will have a handful of these products for sale, but there shouldn’t be any pressure. If you’re on a budget, think about your purchases on your own time. “If your stylist doesn’t automatically offer suggestions on the best products, tools or techniques to use at home, you have the right to ask for that information,” says Smith. She emphasizes that any good hairdresser should be clear and helpful with their recommendations.
Investing in the right hair tools is also an important part of enjoying your haircut for months to come. Take curtain flaps for example. These can wear the style with straighteners, but depending on the look you’re going for, you might be better off with a round brush and a good blow dryer. With that in mind, Smith suggests being honest with your stylist about how much styling you’re willing to commit to. “A great hair appointment includes education on how to maintain your look at home,” says Smith. “[Very few people] They instinctively know how to blow dry or style their hair,” says Smith, “but some are more interested in investing the time required to practice and improve their dexterity and hair skills for everyday styling.” Smith continues, “If it’s important to you, your stylist can help teach you during your appointment, but YouTube videos can also help you at home while you continue to improve your skills.”
If you’re not a dab hand with a blow dryer, consider investing in a heated brush that does it all, like the amika Blowout Babe Thermal Round Brush. If you have more to spend, you might like it Air Shark FlexStyle Styling & Drying Systemthe Dyson Airwrap Multi-Styler Origin.
Choose a ‘low maintenance’ haircut.
A common reason for feeling frustrated with a haircut is the surprise of the change, Dell’Aquila says. “Making a major hair change, like going from long to a short bob, can be a shock that’s not only physical, but [emotional, too]. You have to be ready for it,” Dell’Aquila says. “That’s why we often recommend going for low-maintenance styles,” she adds. “That way, when you wake up, your hair is almost done and you don’t have to do a lot with it.” Again, a consultation is helpful to determine how low maintenance you would like to be. Do you like letting your hair air dry? Want to wash and go?
Similarly, one of Moodie’s first questions for a client is whether they consider themselves to be low maintenance. Fortunately, Smith says experienced stylists are equipped with a wealth of cutting techniques that can help manage your hair’s silhouette and texture — not just to get it as close to your reference photos as possible, but to ensure that you don’t over-stylize it. “Any styling you’re willing to do on top is a bonus,” says Smith.
Finally, Dell’Aquila emphasizes the importance of maintaining your haircut with regular trims (every eight to 12 weeks) to prolong the desired look. Fringe usually requires a trim every two to three weeks, and helpfully, many salons offer free fringe trims between salon visits.
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