As a beauty writer, I’ve never met a gadget or facial treatment I didn’t want to try. I’m always up for trying the newest and most viral beauty trends, tools and ingredients. And while it seems like a new world-worthy product or device is introduced every day, sometimes it’s the ancient tools and methods that come back to the fore and remind us why they still exist. So when I was tasked with trying out the age-old art of facial cupping, I was excited to see what all the buzz was about.
What is cupping?
Cupping is a form of therapy that uses suction to stimulate the skin, muscles and blood flow. Dating back hundreds of years, it is a practice that is deeply rooted in Traditional Chinese Medicine but has also dates back to ancient Egypt. It can be done on the face and body to treat pain, relieve muscle tension and reduce swelling and water retention. According to the practices of Traditional Chinese Medicine, cupping improves the flow of ‘Qi’, the Chinese word for ‘circulating life force’ or ‘energy’. In other words, it is a rejuvenating treatment that can reduce pain and swelling (swelling) by stimulating the tissue just below the skin to help move excess lymph fluid and toxins.
How is cupping performed?
My first introduction to cupping therapy it was in the early 2000s when his photos celebrities walking red carpets with large, circular red marks exposed on the skin of their backs it went viral. While these circles looked like the result of something mysterious (and painful), word quickly spread that they were actually the result of an ancient form of healing called cupping.
The body treatment uses glass cups that are sucked into the skin by the negative pressure created with a burning material. In other words, a tiny fire is lit inside the opening of a round glass cup and the partial vacuum created by the removal of oxygen from the cup draws (sucks) the skin tissue into the cup and the cup is allowed to sit for several minutes. The cupping method works by stimulating and promoting the free flow of Qi in the meridians (energy highways). This creates blood flow, thereby eliminating stagnation that can cause pain from a deeper layer of the muscle. By creating this suction and negative pressure, the cup can drain excess fluid and toxins, loosen adhesions, lift connective tissue, bring blood flow to sluggish skin and muscles, and stimulate peripheral nervous system.
With that in mind, I was a little nervous about giving myself a face cupping. What if I end up with big red veins all over my face? Fortunately, the prospect of ending up with more vibrant, brighter, more radiant skin outweighed any trepidation.
Facial suction cup
While the concept is the same, the face cover is made with skin-absorbing silicone cups without heat or glass involved. The treatment is said to have a strong effect on microcirculation, detoxification and lymphatic drainage. In other words, my dark circles and puffy under eyes will be replaced by soft, glowing and smooth skin if all goes well. The cupping motion is said to circulate and drain toxins that build up under the skin – in the same way lymphatic massage and gua sha can stimulate the detoxification of stagnant fluids (aka swelling).
As facelifts become more and more popular, it is definitely easier to find a professional who performs them. My Chinese medicine doctor has been doing this for years and is seeing benefits with her patients who “want to try more natural remedies to help rejuvenate their skin and…maybe soften lines and wrinkles.” Because it’s non-invasive, many patients like the idea of trying it, as it’s gentler than, say, injectable treatments and laser treatments. A quick warning though, whether you do it at home or at a spa, wait four to six weeks after botox or filler.
DIY Facial Cupping
Always consult a professional before starting any new treatments or skin care techniques.
I ordered a set of rubber cups online. The package included two large cups and two small ones — more like a cone shape than a “cup” and thick but flexible — in other words, very different from the glass balls I’d seen used on the body. The large cones were designed for most of the face – such as the cheeks, forehead and jawline – and the small ones for the thinner skin around the eyes. I watched a few YouTube video to get a feel for the process and felt ready to give it a try.
I started with a clean face. Next, I applied a light layer of face oil. I decided to go with the Facial Recovery Oil, which is one of my favorites and a texture I thought would work — not too thick, not too thin, just the right amount of slip. The big caveat I got from my research was that the cup should never stay in one place, but rather move (slide) from the start point to the end to avoid creating those red marks that look like bruises. This is why it is important to choose the right oil. Then it’s time to start the process. A little nervous, I stuck the first cup to my cheek, held my breath (not recommended) and got to work.
I don’t know what I expected, but I was pleasantly surprised. I squeezed the cone between my thumb and forefinger and touched it to my skin. While I felt a tight suction, it wasn’t overwhelming or painful. With the first feeling that the cone was properly attached to the skin, I began to slide it up the contour of my face. I started at my chin and worked my way up my jawline to my earlobe, repeating the same motion about 10 times (only up, never down). Then I did the same from the outer corner of my lip to the top of my cheekbone and then from the apple of my cheek to my temple. I then switched to the smaller cone and started at the inner corner under my eye and worked my way outwards towards the temple. Again, in slow, repetitive motions, concentrating on one area at a time. And finally, I returned to the larger cone and slipped under my temple, under my chin to important chain of lymph nodes in the neck and collarbone. This action can help drain the lymphatic fluid. Then I repeated the whole process on the other side.
I immediately noticed energy, almost as if I could feel the fluids being released and moving through the pathways under my skin. Nothing aggressive or painful, just a flow. I guess my Qi was activated.
Results
When I was done, I took a closer look in the mirror and was impressed by my handiwork. My skin was flushed in a good way — pink and glowing. And I think my face looked lifted and stretched, especially my jawline. But I think the biggest change I noticed was how the skin under my eyes felt plump and smooth. The bags were gone and I looked refreshed and glowing, like I’d had 10 hours of sleep and zero glasses of wine last night!
Before after
Side effects
I guess the redness could be considered a side effect, but it’s welcome. While the glow and “lift” lasted all day, the pink tint faded in about an hour. But I will say that I can see how this DIY treatment could go wrong. When my phone rang and interrupted my rhythm, I let the cup sit still on my cheek for a few seconds and a faint red circle formed underneath. It wasn’t painful and went away in a few minutes.
Next steps
Many of the YouTube tutorials I watched recommended combining facial cupping with gua sha — another ancient practice that plumps the skin, stimulates lymphatic flow, and boosts the detoxification process. The two workouts together (on alternating days or one after the other) complement each other beautifully and minimize puffy eyes and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
My final verdict
Treating puffy eyes, adding firmness where fine lines were, rosy glow to my skin and achieving a youthful, awake and glowing skin are the benefits I saw. Not bad for literally five minutes of my morning. I’ve been alternating between the Facial Repair Oil and the Rosehip Triple C+E Firming Oil, and a few weeks into my new routine, I feel like my skin has a more vibrant appearance and that any dullness has disappeared. I’m also less puffy, especially under the eyes, which is a big deal. Overall, my face feels rejuvenated, refreshed and renewed. I’ll take it. I will definitely continue to make time in my morning routine to do this.
Have you tried facial cupping or other treatments that could help lift and rejuvenate your skin? Let us know in the comments below or let us know on social media.