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When I visited The Ordinary’s Toronto headquarters in 2019, I had just one request for the brand’s chief scientific officer, Prudvi Kaka: Please make a lip balm. Over the years, The Ordinary has introduced hair care (aka viral Multi-peptide serum for hair density and a shampoo that doubles as a body cleanser), lifted the lid on not one but two new cleansers (both of which I use to the last drop, they’re so good), and launched a retina serum that I think gives prescription skincare a run for its money. However, there was a lip balm-shaped hole in my skincare routine. That is, until today.
Enter: The Ordinary’s Squalane + Amino Acids Lip Balm, $9.50.
I can’t give any credit for the product, of course, but I know it was pretty much made for me and many others who struggle with dry lips year-round. Therefore, I was one of the first beauty journalists to try it. Hiding the strictly embargoed, uniquely shaped tube from friends and strangers was no mean feat. But now I can finally talk about it, here’s everything you need to know.
Is The Ordinary’s Squalane + Amino Acids Lip Balm any good?
This lip balm it’s like nothing you currently own. First the tube itself, which has a solid round shape with a slanted applicator. (Just squeeze the belly of the tube to release the product.) Second, the texture, which is a silky water gel. At first, this felt foreign to me, and that’s because I’m used to thick, clumpy lip balms filled with ingredients like petroleum jelly, which lock in moisture but don’t do much else. The main difference is that the ingredients in This Lip balm don’t just place a temporary plaster over the issue like others. Instead, they actively work to heal and soothe the lips.
All this is due to two main ingredients: squalane and amino acids.
What is squalane and what are its skin benefits in a lip balm?
Wanting to know exactly how a lip balm like this works, I asked my dermatologist consultant Dr. Magnus Lynch to break down the ingredients.
“Squalane is a natural substance found in human sebum [oil]says Dr. Lynch. In skin care products, the ingredient comes from plant sources such as olives, rice bran and sugar cane, adds Dr. Lynch, making it a stable and effective moisturizing agent. “Squalane works by creating a barrier on the skin to prevent moisture loss,” says Dr. Lynch, “and for lips, that means keeping them hydrated and preventing chapping and dryness.” A major advantage of squalane is that it is light, non-greasy, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. “On the lips, it provides hydration without causing breakouts around the mouth area,” says Dr. Lynch – something I’m prone to with thicker lip balms that contain shea butter, petroleum jelly and oils.
Its moisturizing properties are only the tip of the iceberg. Squalane also helps fight free radicals, says Dr. Lynch, which are essentially unstable molecules in the environment from pollution and UV radiation, which can damage the skin and lips. Finally, its anti-inflammatory properties are a soothing effect on irritated, chapped lips.
What are amino acids and what are the benefits for the skin in a lip balm?
In addition to squalane, this lip balm it also has amino acids. Without taking you back to chemistry class, these are the building blocks of proteins, which are essential for various biological processes in the skin, including the production of collagen and elastin – both of which are responsible for keeping skin (and lips) elastic , says Dr. Leeds. In something like a lip balm, amino acids help attract and retain moisture, Dr. Lynch continues. “For the lips, this translates into improved hydration and reduced dryness and flaking.”
Considering that amino acids promote skin healing and regeneration, they can be especially beneficial for chapped or damaged lips. “They also support the integrity of the skin barrier [the outermost layer of our skin] which helps lock in moisture and protect against external irritants,” says Dr. Lynch. “This is vital for keeping lips soft and supple.” Together, squalane and amino acids are a dream team, he suggests.
Clearly, this lip balm is smarter than the rest, and that’s why I use it differently. The consistency is super light, so I use my finger to massage an initial layer onto my lips as if it were a moisturizer or serum. Once it’s absorbed, I apply another thick layer on top and let it sit there to work its magic. Having used it consistently for over a month, my lips are so much better: they’re softer, smoother and plumper, and there are far fewer bits of skin peeling off, so I’m not tempted to pick and make things worse.
If you wear lipstick or lip liner, this is the ultimate product to prep your lips. It is not greasy or sticky at all. Instead, it hydrates the lips but doesn’t interfere with anything you want to apply on top. Another great thing is that it’s fragrance-free, so there’s no weird or distracting taste to deal with. One downside is that it doesn’t contain SPF, but I slather my entire face – including my lips – with sunscreen every morning before I go out.
At $9.50, Squalane + Amino Acids Lip Balm it’s on par with the brand’s myriad serums, cost-wise, and is a fraction of the price of venerable lip products like Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask, Summer Fridays Butter Balmand Glossier Balm Dotcom. Like most things The Ordinary releases, I predict it will be a viral sell-out. You can shop it first at The usual.
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