Some swear by the silky smooth results of dermaplaning, but is this skin care trend both effective and safe? Absolutely, if you visit a professional spa for your treatment. Read on to discover some misconceptions about skin planing, some less-than-ideal results, and our best tips for avoiding skin planing regrets.
What is Dermaplaning? | Dermaplaning without regrets | Why Dermaplaning should only be done by an esthetician | Who benefits from Dermaplaning? | 6 Common Dermaplaning Regrets
What is Dermaplaning?
Also known as “microplaning” or “blading,” dermablading is a professional skin care treatment that exfoliates the face with an exfoliating blade specially designed for use on the skin. The procedure removes dead skin, product build-up and hair (also known as peach fuzz) found on the cheeks and chin. Afterwards, you should notice and feel rejuvenated and smooth skin on the face.
Eminence Organics Regional Sales & Training Representative Tamara Hughes says that getting confused with shaving is a common mistake. “A dermaplaning treatment and shaving at home are completely different and use different tools to achieve different goals,” she says. “Although they both use a blade that moves along the skin, that’s the only thing they have in common.”
“Despite the number of blades available at home,” says Hughes, “Dermaplaning should always be done by a certified dermaplaning technician.”
Want a more in-depth explanation of dermaplaning? Take a look at ours guide to a dermaplane facial here.
How to avoid the regret of Dermaplaning
You may be wondering if dermaplaning is “bad” for your skin. According Healthline.comdermaplaning can:
- Minimize the appearance of acne scars, bags and fine lines.
- It gives you a smooth and glowing skin after the treatment
- Allow makeup to be applied and removed more easily as it has a smoother canvas. Even skin care products can be applied more easily, with some finding that the product absorbs better into the skin.
Unlike laser hair removal and other cosmetic treatments, there is little to no recovery time other than making sure you apply sunscreen and watch how much time you spend in the sun. As dermaplaning only affects the top layers of the skin, it is considered a minimally invasive treatment, with less risk than other treatments. According to Hughes, fresh dermaplaned skin can be perfect for enhancing the results of chemical peels, facials and microneedling treatments.
Is it safe to do dermaplaning at home? No! Always go to a spa to do this treatment, don’t try to do it at home. As for the results, they last about three weeks and since your skin is in a fragile state, your skin is at risk of sun damage in the following days. Due to the fragility of the skin, you should avoid using retinol or stinging skin care products for a few weeks after treatment. Those suffering from certain skin conditions (see below) should not attempt dermaplaning treatments.
Why Dermaplaning should only be done by an esthetician
According to Hughes, dermaplaning is usually performed by a certified technician. This is because dermaplaning is a professional treatment and removes two to three weeks of dead skin cells as well as hair from pimples. She explains the difference between professional dermaplaning and using a razor at home: “In the treatment they use a surgical blade at a 45 degree angle for the main purpose of exfoliation. In comparison, facial razors are safety-guarded tools that rest on the skin at a 35-degree angle and are designed for home use. Its main purpose is hair removal and ONLY removes hair on the surface of the skin.”
Who benefits from Dermaplaning?
Any skin type could respond well to dermaplaning, and the practice can be particularly beneficial for those with:
- Acne marks and acne scars
- Dull skin
- Dry skin
- Sun damaged skin
- Fine wrinkles
- Concerns about their velvety hair, which can naturally thicken due to age or conditions such as polycystic ovaries.
Who Should Avoid Dermaplaning?
According WebMD and Healthline.comyou should avoid skin planing if you have recently or regularly experience:
- Severe sunburn
- Active outbreaks
- Sensitive skin
- Use of Accutane or tretinoin in the past 6 months
- Cancer and being treated for cancer
- Keloid
- Eczema
- Rosacea
- Spider veins
- Cystic acne
- hirsutism
- Viruses such as chicken pox or shingles
Common regrets about dermaplaning
Dermaplaning Regret #1: “Winging it” and trying it at home
It’s not hard to find an at-home dermaplaning blade, but just because you can try a dermaplaning facial on your own, doesn’t mean you should.
“Dermaplaning should always be done by a certified dermaplaning technician to avoid injury and adverse reactions,” says Hughes. “You’ll want to make sure you’re looking for certified technicians who have been trained in the proper techniques. Be sure to read the reviews and discuss the treatment with them before starting.”
Without proper training, sanitizing knowledge, or knowing how to angle the tool, you risk damaging the delicate skin on your face, which can cause infection, irritation, scratches, or even scarring.
YouTuber Natalies Outlet reports hers bad experience after dermaplaning with an old blade, describing the results as feeling like “ingrown hairs”. “I had lumps for months,” she says in her video.
Sorry for dermaplaning #2: Your breakouts are getting worse
According to Cleveland Clinic, the sliding motion of dermaplaning can worsen breakouts by spreading bacteria around. Over time, this can even cause more breakouts and upset existing acne. We always recommend avoiding dermaplaning if you live with acne, active breakouts, or use acne treatments like Accutane or Isotretinoin. However, if you think your skin is clear enough to attempt the practice, make sure you work with a professional to keep skin planing tools away from any broken skin or blemishes.
Sorry About Dermaplaning #3: Dermaplaning Irritates Your Skin
While you may be impressed with an initial feeling of softness, a few hours later, your skin may feel tight and scratchy if the dermaplaning has worked a little harder than your sensitive skin would prefer. We always recommend that you speak to your practitioner or dermatologist prior to treatment to discuss whether it is right for you.
However, if your skin only suffers from occasional sensitivity, consider an oil styling treatment that applies a layer of facial oil to the skin before dermaplaning to reduce any friction. And always remember, your grooming should be slow, careful and very light on the skin to avoid scratching and irritation.
Dermaplaning regret #4: It revives an old cold sore
Unfortunately, dermaplaning in the wrong area can reawaken an old area of herpes, reactivating the herpes simplex virus on the skin. To avoid this, see a doctor to get an oral anti-herpes medicine or antibiotic to prevent any outbreaks, and always tell your dermatologist about your herpes history before your treatment.
Sorry for Dermaplaning #5: Neglect your skin after treatment
As dermaplaning has removed a layer of older skin to reveal new, a recovery routine is essential in the weeks following your treatment. According SELF.comskin cells in the epidermis take about 14 days to turn over, so follow your dermaplaning facial with a routine that replenishes the skin barrier to maintain long-term smooth, healthy skin.
This means focusing on:
- Hydrating serums and hyaluronic acids to add moisture to the skin
- Hydration in the weeks after treatment
- Sunscreen, as your skin is even more susceptible to UV damage
- Avoid skin care products that make your skin tingle
- Avoid retinol
- Gentle cleaning
With proper care and professional help, dermaplaning rejuvenates the skin and leaves it looking perfectly smooth. If you are interested in exploring this innovative treatment, visit the Spa Locator and call your nearest Eminence Organics Spa partner to see if they offer dermaplaning services.