Let’s talk about it different developer volumes!
Have you ever wondered why there are two parts to your permanent hair color and why they only start working when you mix them together? Well, one of the tubes contains the actual color and the other is a hair color developer.
And one doesn’t work without the other.
But what is a hair developer? Why should you mix it with your paint? Can it damage your hair?
There are many different levels of hair growth, each with a different function.
Some of them may be more harmful than others. Some lighten your hair while others deposit a darker color Oh… and some are better for gray coverage than others…
This ultimate guide to the different developer volumes will answer all your questions…
💡 SUGGESTION: Don’t forget to pin this to yours hair colour board Pinterest so you can always come back when you need to! 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼
What does the developer do?
The hair dye developer works by opening the cuticle of the hair so that the color can enter or leave the hair. If you don’t mix the developer with your hair dye, the color can’t get into your hair and it will wash out easily.
Developer volumes refer to how much hydrogen peroxide that developer contains. In addition, the amount of peroxide determines how much the epidermis layer will be opened during the process.
Hair color levels
First things first, we should talk about hair levels. This will make it easier to understand how the different developer volumes work.
As you can see, we measure hair color levels on a scale of 1-10.
Level 1 is black and level 10 is a very light blonde. As the hair gets lighter, it will have a higher level number. For example, medium brown is level 4.
To clarify, this does not explain the color shade. it’s just a way of measuring how light or dark the color is.
When coloring your hair, you should determine your current and target levels.
Trace: You can find the target level by looking at the number of the hair color you are using. For example, 5N means your end result should be level 5 with the correct amount of developer.
Learn more with my guide to reading hair color numbers/tags.
Elevator against deposit
It is also important to specify whether you want to withdraw or deposit.
Elevator it means that we “raise” the hair color to a lighter level. For example, if your hair is brown and you want to go blonde, you should do it elevator the.
Deposit means we deposit hair color molecules on the hair to make it darker.
You should also specify how many withdrawal or deposit levels you want to achieve. You will need to lift your hair three levels higher if you are going from a level 5 brown to a level 8 blonde.
Keep in mind that virgin hair color (hair that has never been dyed) reacts differently than dyed hair. Read more about the golden rule of hair color lifting.
What are the different developer volumes?
• Volume 10 developer The developer (10V / 3% peroxide) will set the color and make the hair darker than it was. It works by lifting the layers of the skin so that pigment is deposited. Use for color deposit without lift (including most hair tonics and demi-permanent hair colors).
• Volume 20 developer (20V / 6% peroxide) is the most commonly used. First of all, it is optimal for covering gray hair. You would also use it to stay around your existing hair color level or lift 1-2 levels.
• Developer volume 30 (30V / 9% peroxide) lifts hair up to 3 levels higher and is usually used with light color.
• Volume 40 Programmer (40V / 12% peroxide) will make hair up to 4 levels lighter. It is often used on blondes or high-lift blondes and may be needed on hair that is dark. Some high-lift colors even require double 40V for extra lift. Be aware that 40V used with a cigarette lighter can be tragically damaging if used by mistake.
Less commonly used types of programmers
There are some less used developer volumes like 5V, 15V, 50V, 60V etc. Based on what you just learned, you should be able to figure out what each of them does.
Denial of responsibility: I would never recommend using anything higher than 40V. However, there is a developer of 120 volumes, in which you can make any other strength by diluting it. While this may sound awesome, keep in mind that it is difficult to obtain as most shipping companies cannot carry it.
Sounds like something you’d want to put on your head, right?
FAQ
The volume development program 10 is intended to deposit pigment into the hair without lift. The volume growth program 20 is intended to lift the hair 1-2 levels. The 30 volume developer lifts the hair three levels and the 40 volume developer lifts four levels.
Choosing between 20 and 30 volume growth depends on the desired level of lift and the hair color you are aiming for.
Volume 20 is typically used for minimal lift or to cover gray hair.
The Volume 30 program offers more lift and is suitable for darker hair colors or when you want a more significant change.
Keep in mind that using a higher volume growth program can be harsher on your hair, so it’s important to consider your current hair condition and how much lift you need
20 volume developer is commonly used in hair color formulations for various purposes. Here are some common uses:
Gray Coverage: It is often used to cover gray or white hair providing sufficient lift and color penetration.
Tone-on-Tone Color: When you want to make a shade darker or maintain your current color without lightening, the 20 volume developer is suitable.
Minimum lift: If you’re looking for minimal lift or just going a few shades lighter, volume 20 is a softer option compared to higher volumes.
Low light: When adding lowlights to your hair, the 20 volume developer can be used to darken specific sections.
It is important to note that the choice of developer depends on your specific hair color goals. If you are unsure, it is recommended that you consult a professional hairstylist to determine the correct growth and color formula for your hair type and desired results.
Final thoughts
If you like DIY hair color, you need to learn how to style your hair color properly. One of the most important aspects of mixing your paint involves using the correct level of developer.
Some developers are intended for lifting, while others only deposit color. With gray hair, it is recommended to use a 20 volume developer for optimal coverage. If you’re highlighting your hair, you’ll probably want to use a 10 volume developer for deposit.
Depending on how your hair currently looks and what you’re trying to achieve, you can use this guide to create the perfect hair color for you!
Until next time,
MEET THE AUTHOR 🤩
Hollee is a licensed cosmetologist with over nine years of professional experience in the hair industry. With her unique insight and versatile experience, she’ll help you discover the latest hair trends or even crush your next DIY hair project.
learn more!
🌟 Your turn: Did you learn anything new about the different developer volumes? Have questions about how it all works? Tell us your thoughts in the comments section below! 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼
🥰 Other posts you might like:
